The night bus from Accra to Wa, mercifully ,showed no
dreadful Nigerian movies, nor inane Ghanaian soaps this time and my ear plugs
protected me from most of the repetitive, loud music played through the coach
system throughout the night. I was so tired I slept longer than all my previous
journeys combined. Arriving in Wa at 8am, I dragged my suitcase down the main
street and arrived at the tro station at an earlier than ideal time. The market
was only just coming alive and the tro took an hour to fill. Heaven forbid that
it should leave for Nadowli with a spare seat, unpaid for. This is the time for
people to arrive for business…..not leave it for the villages. I sat in the
front seat with a sachet of water, a hunk of bread and a hard boiled egg and
watched the station begin its day.
Most young men seemed to have a full time job greeting each
other jovially and play fighting. Supremacy was obvious amongst them and the
ones with any business oozed confidence. It was clear which ones would not be
part of anything lucrative throughout the rest of the day. Some were busily
loading and unloading various vehicles that arrived, blocked everyone’s way,
and left in a hail of horn blasts.
The women, of course, were seriously going about their
business of earning enough to feed their extended families. They carried
everything on their heads, eggs, bread, water and small pouches of other liquid
refreshment, fruit, toothpaste, tooth cleaning sticks, wrapped kenke and bolts
of cloth to name but a few. Their eyes are everywhere looking for potential
customers. Being white and therefore “rich”, I am an obvious target and they
all make towards me in hope. Surely I must need all that they offer. I noticed
an old man who had already spotted me from afar, gesturing his hunger and begging
for cash. I am not able to refuse this one.
Some traders announce their goods with shouts and calls and
others tap their box or bottle. In this case a bottle of clear liquid that
promises to start your day with a shot of either neat spirit or some restorative
“ herbal medicine”. It didn’t take much for me to refuse this!!
Finally, we are ready to depart. A couple of petrified goats
have been tied to the roof rack along with some large baskets and bundles of
something light and soft. The locals pay a few peshwas for their wares and
belongings but a suitcase seems to demand more!
The tro “mate” who deals with everything except driving it, asked me for
2.5 cedis. Laughing, I pointed out that this was more than it cost to transport
ME! I gave him one cedi and lifted the case into the back of the vehicle
myself. He had no answer to that!!
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